Today, I'm focusing on the basic skirt block. The skirt block is the simplest form of a skirt possible. We use these blocks as a foundation to create all kinds of interesting skirts and dresses. Once a skirt block has been perfected to fit the body, most fit issues when creating other skirts will no longer exist. For example, I have a short waist and sway back. So, once my block is made to fit me perfectly, neither of these issues will be a problem in most designs.
All of the skirts above can be made using a simple skirt block. The skirt block, in my opinion, is the easiest of the basic blocks to draft and fit. So, it's great way for a beginner pattern drafter to start off making clothes. For this tutorial you will need paper, pencil, a clear ruler, an L square, and a hip curve.
Hip Curve: http://goo.gl/WBsTbr
Paper: http://goo.gl/miOdhM
Clear Ruler: http://goo.gl/I5i1UB
1. First draw a vertical line measuring the distance from your center front waist to hem. I like the hem of my skirt block to hit right at the knee.
2. Draw a horizontal line perpendicular to the first measuring the distance of your back hip measurement plus a 1/2" for ease. Remember we are only making one half of the skirt so this measurement should only be of half the back hip measurement.
3. On the other side of the paper, do the same as in step 2 using your front hip measurement plus a 1/2" for ease.
4. Measure down from center front waist the same length as in step 1 (skirt length).
5. Measure down from center back waist the same length as in step 1 and 4 (skirt length).
6. Connect center back, side seam, and center front at the hem.
7. On your pattern, measure down from the center front waist the distance between your center front waist and hip. Draw a horizontal line perpendicular to center front across to center back.
8. Take your total waist measurement and subtract this number from your total hip measurement. Use this number on the chart above to find the number of darts you will need as well as dart intake.
9. On your pattern, measure from the center back waist inward the length of your back waist measurement plus a 1/4" for ease plus your total back dart intake.
ex) If your back waist measurement is 7" and the difference between your total hip and total waist is 10", then your final measurement will be 9 1/4". 7"+ 1/4"+ 1"intake+ 1"intake.
10. Repeat step 9 on the front of your pattern using the front dart intake measurement from the chart in step 8.
11. From center back waist, make a mark where you want your first back dart to be. This measurement will be approximately half of the back waist measurement.
12. From the mark you made in the last step, measure inward the amount of your personal dart intake (chart).
13. Continue to measure inward 1 1/4" and mark.
14. Measure inward one more time the same distance as the previous dart. (Step 12.)
15. Find the center of the first set of marks and draw a vertical line perpendicular to the waist. This line should measure 5 1/2".
16. Connect the two marks of the first dart to the end of line you just drew in step 15.
17. Repeat step 16 to the second dart.
18. Measure in from center front waist and mark where you want the first dart for the front of the skirt to be. Once again this will be around half the front waist measurement.
19. From the mark you made in the last step, measure inward the amount of your personal dart intake (chart).
20. Continue to measure inward 1 1/4" and mark.
21. Measure inward one more time the same distance as the previous dart. (Step 19.)
22. Find the center of the first set of marks and draw a vertical line perpendicular to the waist. This line should measure 3 1/2".
23. Connect the two marks of the first dart to the end of line you just drew in step 22.
24. Repeat step 23 to the second dart.
25. Now we are going to equalize the side seam. Measure the 2 marks that are closest to the center of the pattern and center it along the side seam so that the measurement from our center vertical line (side seam) to each mark is the same.
26. Measure the distance between your center back waist and hip. On your pattern, measure from the center back hip upwards and mark. This may be higher, lower, or the same as your waistline.
27. Where your side seam and waist meet, measure up 3/8" and mark. Now, you will use your hip curve to create the curve in the side seam by connecting the hip line to the marks you just made. Which part of the ruler you use is somewhat arbitrary, but you will want the side seam to remain straight until about half way between the hip and waist. I lined up the 15" mark with the hip line and the 5" mark with the 3/8" mark.
28. Now use your hip curve again and gradually curve the waistline of the front skirt.
29. Repeat step 28 with the back connecting the new side seam to the center back mark you made in step 26.
And.....your done!!!! You will want to mark center front and center back on your pattern and cut them apart along the new side seams. Whether you want to add seam allowance to this pattern is up to you.
Now all you need to do is make a muslin to see if it fits!
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